- 2nd-generation GM traits
- Synthetics Aesthetics call
- NYT article about iGEM2009
- Wellcome Trust window display
- Giant Plant Cells
- Glass microbiology
- Endnote X3
- LEGO-sized hole punch
- Glowing Toyama Squid USB Memory Stick
- Green Pins
- Bacterial rainbow
- Synthetic operon for violacein production
- Cambridge team wins Grand Prize for iGEM2009
- The scatalog: E. chromi, pigment and poo
- Grand Prize for Cambridge iGEM2009 team
- Cambridge presentation at the iGEM2009 Jamboree
- Wellcome Trust iGEM2010 studentships
- Cambridge iGEM2009 team
- Synthetic Biology Project
- The iGEM Project
- RS Interface SynBio issue
- steam-powered dragon tin toy
- Magcloud: On Demand Magazine Printing
- RAE Synthetic Biology Report 2009
- Arduino Mega
- Phytocomp
- Computational Biology at Microsoft Research in Cambridge
- Open source hardware 2008
- www.synbio.org.uk news feeds
- Cambridge Network News
- iGEM 2008: Novice Bioengineers
- Plastic Logic e-Reader
- High Speed Photography using the Arduino
- Visitor's Guide to Cambridge
- Graduate Studies at Cambridge
- Emergence: a foundation for Synthetic Biology in Europe
- Bacillus Standards Working Group Meeting 1
- SynBioStandards UK Network in Synthetic Biology
- NumberKey turns your iPhone into a numeric Keypad
- Toast Bandages
- Soap Grenade
- Swiss Chocolate Knife
- Papercraft Turkey Dinner
- Miracle Fruit Tablets
- Wilting flower dies as your energy use blooms
- tikitag: RFID for the masses
- Predatory bacterial swarm uses rippling motion to reach prey
- Leonard et al Engineering microbes
- CatCam
- KAUST-Cambridge AEA
- iGEM2008 Jamboree
- Optical microscopy techniques for plants
- Computer modeling of plant morphogenesis
- Image Analysis of Cells
- Teaching materials from the University of Cambridge
- Scientific Computing in Cambridge
- Cheaposcope
- Gallery of Plant Images
- BioBrick vectors for Bacillus subtilis
- Tools for Arabidopsis
- Coleocheate as a model system
- Superfolder GFP
- IET Synthetic Biology
- Synthetic Biology in Plants
- Plant Visions exhibition
- iGEM2008 overview
- iGEM2009 studentships
- iGEM competition
- MIT Parts Registry
- An automated home-built low-cost fermenter suitable for large-scale bacterial expression of proteins in Escherichia coli.
- 90 billion tons of microbial organisms live in the deep biosphere
- Tesla 10 series
- The impact of online publishing
- The Moore's Law of microbiology - towards bacterial culture miniaturization with the micro-Petri chip.
- Moo does full-size business cards
- Handpresso - Portable Precise Espresso On the Go or at Home
- Book Darts
- Pinwheel and old VCR used to make wind-powered LED
- Firewinder LED windmill, for the eco-friendly barbershop
DIY Macro Photography Kit on the Cheap
DIY Macro Photography Kit on the Cheap
In a quick break from our typical hacks and mods, learn to create a simple macro (close up) photography setup allowing you to create some fantastic, professional shots (see some samples below). Â� I’m an avid photography fan, and besides nature photography, I am most fascinated by marco photography. To take good macro shots however you’d typically thousands of dollars worth of hardware but we can come up with some nifty hacks to save a couple of (hundred) bucks.
More close up electronics “art” can be seen in our beam robots and circuitry art posts.
A mid-range amateur camera is actually capable of extremely good macro shots (I use a Sony DSC-H9), the problem is usually with lighting and environmental factors, especially if you want to create those clean “product shot” type images. What we need to do is create a closed environment with controlled but relatively bright light. Have a good light source already, you can build it almost for free.
To create our macro environment, we’ll be using a cardboard box, cutting out its sides, sticking some tracing paper or “rice” paper in the holes, and that’s actually about it. I started out with a 14×14x18 cardboard box. I chose these dimensions because mainly this was the box I had at home, but also because while my subjects aren’t that big, I like to have room to play around with the objects themselves, and some shadow-casting.
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Once you have your box, whip out a knife or a razor, and start cutting. First of all, lay the box in its side, and cut off one side almost completely, leaving about 2 inches on each side (see bootom of box in the image). On all other sides we will be cutting windows, leaving 2 inches on each side, but we are removing this side completely. The purpose of this, is to enable you to put your macro box over your subject, rather than putting your subject in.
Once you’ve removed the side, you can start to cut the windows on the other sides. Remember not to remove the whole sides, just cut a rectangle out of each. I left 2 inches all round, but if you have a very sturdy box you can go with less. If you want, you keep the flaps which were at the top of the box (these are now on the side). They can be used for light control, but I’m not such a professional, they just got in my way, so I heartlessly cut them off.
All that is left to do is to stick some tracing paper over the windows. I used some black masking tape to finish the job as you can see on the pic, however, I only stuck it along the top for each window. I used pins to hold the other end in place initially. My idea was to paint shapes on the paper and experiment with lighting like that. In the end some interesting stuff came out of it all, but finally I taped it all around and kept it white.
The last piece of the puzzle is the one thing you might have to pay for, a light source. Apparently you can use a bright light, but I never got exactly the results I wanted. It was still pretty good, but you really should get a better light source. You can buy some appropriate lights for around $20 – $30 on ebay, the best would actually be a manual flash. I am actually in the processes of trying to find a good light source, and I really want two, coming from both sides.